Saturday, September 26, 2009

goat intestines, reality TV, and driving in Kenya


This week was very busy, but full of stories to tell so we apologize for not getting them on here sooner. We started the week with a film crew from Los Angeles coming to visit the village. One member of the film crew (who happens to work with Open Arms) was the brain child of this particular venture. Their idea is to create a reality television series called "Camp Kenya" where they introduce families from the US into the Open Arms village in Mlango, Kenya and have them work at the village doing all sorts of tasks (cleaning out the chicken coup, washing clothes the old school way, milking the cows) and introducing them to Kenyan culture. They had a family from the San Francisco come out to film the pilot episode, but if the series is accepted, they will have several families come to compete in various projects including assistance in building the rest of the village.

They participated in campfires every night, including one in which we had a goat roast. Matt has participated in several goat roasts in Kenya before, but this was the first one for Cheryl. Matt told Cheryl that goat tasted like lamb, but after tasting the goat meat, Cheryl described the meat tasting something like an old sheep. At this particular goat roast, the cooks also offered goat intestines, which neither Matt nor Cheryl nor any of the members of the reality show had ever tasted before. Matt decided to be the brave one (or the foolish one depending on your perspective), and partake of the goat intestines through the encouragement of one of the Kenyan house parents. In fact, Matt was the only muzungu (white person) to eat the goat intestines. They actually tasted better than Matt expected, but they had a strong after taste which left one's mouth tasting like a goat smells. It is highly unlikely Matt or Cheryl will ever have goat intestines again.

Matt has been running this week around the neighborhood. He was inspired by a few Kenyan runners who visited the village earlier this week. Thinking Matt could start a conversation with one person who looked a little older and shorter than many of the Kenyan runners, he met Moses and tried to impress Moses with the fact that he was actually trying to run in Eldoret. While muzungus running in Eldoret might be a little bit less common, it turned out that Moses Tanui was not entirely impressed with the length or speed of Matt’s running accomplishments in the past week. Having won the Boston Marathon twice, and having been the first person in the world to run a half marathon in under an hour, Moses Tanui was one of many current and former Kenyan runners that Matt and Cheryl met that day.

Having gained some confidence in running through the streets of Eldoret, Matt decided to upgrade to driving through the streets of Kenya. The first time seemed fairly successful as Matt drove out to the village. No goats, chickens, cows, bicyclists, pedestrians, or other drivers were harmed during the incident, but Matt’s blood pressure rose significantly. On the second attempt driving, Matt once again succeeded in driving to the village without harming any animals or bicyclists, but Cheryl’s blood pressure rose significantly as she sat in the front seat and watched Matt narrowly avoid all of the above and more. Lots of horn honking, swerving, and girl’s screaming (including Cheryl, Ruth, Renee, Rachel, and three babies in the back seat), but all arrived safely to their destination.

One day this week, Matt and Cheryl helped with an Open Arms medical clinic at Kambe Teso in the slums of Eldoret. They spent most of the morning packing up medical supplies, gathering food for the feeding program, and setting up the tent. Shortly after lunch nearly one hundred people were already lined up to receive treatment from the clinic. Matt continued sorting and setting up supplies, while Cheryl began to assist as a pharmacist with no medical background whatsoever. Fortunately, Rachel was able to supervise Cheryl and the other volunteers who were in the same boat to make sure that they were giving out the proper dosages. By the end of the day, they had fed over one hundred children, treated and served over two hundred adults and children and all were exhausted.

On Thursday, Matt and Cheryl and the rest of the Open Arms staff spent the day at Poa Place, Eldoret’s version of a zoo/amusement park. The children loved playing in the playground and seeing a variety of monkeys, snakes, and ostriches. They had one more campfire that night and said goodbye to the film crew and the Beck family who participated in the reality show. On Friday, Matt and Cheryl went back to reality, cleaning and sorting the garage to place things back in order from the medical camp, do some policy and curriculum writing for the OAI School, and reorganizing the bedroom. They had ordered a bedroom dresser and a book shelf from a local store so they wouldn’t have to live out of a suitcase, and the dresser arrived a week late (nothing is really late here, it just arrives or occurs whenever). Matt and Cheryl were both very excited to regain some sense of order and normalcy in their bedroom (although the book shelf has still not arrived). Today looks like a very relaxing day, catching up on e-mail, writing a bit, and finishing this blog, speaking of which, we probably need to say goodbye until next time.

Blessings,

Matt and Cheryl

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Running, Eating, and Sleeping in Kenya


Matt went for his first run in Eldoret yesterday and then he felt ambitious enough to go for another run yesterday. It isn't unusual to see runners on the streets of Eldoret since Eldoret is considered the running capital of Africa. Many of the top runners from the continent train here due to the climate, the high elevation, and the training that was initiated by gold medalist Kip Keno starting forty years ago. What is unusual is seeing a runner moving so slowly, especially a muzungu (white man). The first day out running Matt met with quite a few stares, but by the second day they just shook their heads and muttered "crazy muzungu". Matt and Cheryl also went out for a walk in the neighborhood with one of the dogs (or should we say that the dogs took Matt and Cheryl for a walk).


Matt and Cheryl also went shopping trying to find a little furniture in town so they don't have to live out of a suitcase any longer. Still waiting on some furniture to arrive since the selection in town is limited. Matt also went to have his first haircut outside of the United States. It turned out to be his best haircut ever; he even got a scalp massage and a shampoo for one third of the price he paid for his last haircut in the states. In fact, quite a few things are cheaper here: food, rent, clothing, health care, taxis, and a list of other items, as long as your willing to bicker and negotiate (sometimes they like to start with a higher price knowing that we're muzungus, but it helps to get the inside perspective on what is considered the going price for things.) Other items are the same price or higher such as gasoline, utilities, and imported goods.


We eat most of the time at the house and we have had really pretty good meals although there is a lot of formula and baby bottles scattered around the kitchen with three babies in the house. We have had a lot of chicken and fish, rice, potatoes, squash, milk fresh from the cow (we boil it and let it cool before we drink it), eggs fresh from the farm, good coffee, and a lot of Kenyan chai tea. Matt and David made pancakes and bacon this morning for breakfast for the girls and the babies and it turned out to be a hit. Eating out is usually a bargain with good meals available at anywhere from $2 to $8 in Eldoret and Indian food seems to be the best bet since there is a contingent of the Eldoret population from the Indian sub-continent. We will be attending a goat roast probably this weekend (Cheryl's first one) which should provide some really good food and good stories. A few things we would have missed (but which we wisely brought with us) are Peanut M and M's (although they will be gone in the next month or so at the current rate of consumption), peanut butter (although I have seen peanut butter on the shelves at the stores in Eldoret for the first time), Charmin toilet paper (the toilet paper here - let us just say the newspaper would be preferable ) snack bars, protein bars, and trail mix which all will be consumed likely sometime before Christmas. Some things we miss so far are baked goods (although Rachel made a really good peach cobbler yesterday - but we haven't really spotted any bakeries in Eldoret as of yet), steaks (it seems most of the cattle are used for dairy around here) creamer for our coffee (we like the liquid kind but we brought some pretty good powdered creamer), Tillamook Cheddar Cheese (there really isn't any cheddar cheese in town), and fast food (probably a very good thing but there are no fast food franchises in Eldoret; you have to go to Nairobi for that.) Nevertheless, most of the things we miss or the things we brought once we run out are things we really don't need and things that will offer us a healthier diet (not to mention a little weight loss).


Sleeping in Eldoret can be a challenge sometimes with three babies in the house. Nevertheless, the babies have begun to sleep more at night, and the two oldest, Diana and Belle, have learned to sleep through the night most nights. The same cannot always be said for Matt and Cheryl. After we got through with the challenges of jet lag, our sleep had to compete with the three dogs barking in the back yard, the rooster crowing from 5am to 8am incessantly which Matt would really prefer eating rather than hearing in the morning, the Islamic call to prayer at 5am from the local mosque, and the squawking of crested cranes and a variety of other cranes at certain times of the day and night. Amazingly, perhaps out of exhaustion, both Matt and Cheryl have begun to tune out the noises and sleep better, but they are both looking forward to moving to the OAI Village in Mlango which is in a quieter rural setting.

Monday, September 14, 2009

More on babies, driving in Kenya, and a Rift Valley adventure






We've had plenty of time with the babies at our house in Eldoret. For now we are staying in a rented house in town with David and Rachel Gallagher; two other volunteers, Renee Scobill and Ruth Major; three babies, Belinda Caroline (Bel), Esther Ruth, and Diana; and three dogs, Mocha, Java, and Chai. The babies are a real joy to work with, and Matt is even pitching in with the feeding chores although he hasn't changed a diaper as of yet. The house is also used as the office for the Open Arms International Kenyan staff during the week, and today approximately two dozen staff and visitors have visited and worked at the house for various reasons. Hopefully we will be able to move everyone, including the offices to the OAI village in Mlango sometime in the next two or three months when construction on the first phase is completed and water and electricity become available at the village.






In addition to helping out with the babies, we also helped out with the feeding program for homeless orphans in the slums of Eldoret. It was difficult to watch some of the children with distended stomachs suffering from malnutrition, but also encouraging to know that we were offering them a nutritious meal, likely the only meal they would receive that day.




Driving back and forth to the village, to appointments, or to the feeding program everyday has been an experience in itself. Neither Cheryl or I have had the courage to drive any vehicles yet in Kenya, but just being a passenger has been an adventure in itself. Driving on the left side of the road has been hard enough to get used to, but entering busy intersections simultaneously with six or seven vehicles, twenty to forty people, and various cattle, goats, and chickens without any sense of order (I am not exaggerating) is slightly disorienting. Cheryl is convinced that she won't take up driving in Kenya, but Matt may get the courage sometime in the next few weeks. More on that later.


Matt drove out to a village above the Rift Valley with David Gallagher on Saturday and we saw some spectacular views of the valley floor, and vistas of various overlooks and cliffs above the valley. We were fairly high in elevation, over 9,000 feet, and walking around the village almost took our breath away. We stopped and visited with a farmer and created quite a stir with the children who had likely never seen any Wazungus (white people) before. About two dozen of them followed us around the village as we talked to the farmer and his brother. Finally, they gathered up the courage to talk with us after we convinced them we weren't going to eat them, and after I took a few photos of them, they all wanted to be in the photos. It has been a busy week, and we look forward to sending more blogs your way soon.

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

The newest members of the Open Arms village


Here's a photo of two of the newest members of the Open Arms village, Cheryl Tallman (who just arrived to Kenya two days ago), and Esther Ruth (who just arrived two weeks ago at only one day old).

Into Africa


We arrived in Nairobi, Kenya on Sunday evening, September 6th without incident and with all of our luggage. We took a brief tour of Nairobi on September 7th, including a trip to the elephant sanctuary, a giraffe center, a memorial sight for the 1998 U.S. embassy bombing. Then we exchanged some money at the bank, grabbed a quick meal, and hopped on another plane to Eldoret, Kenya on Monday evening. We've spent the last two days unpacking, recovering from jet lag, visiting the village, and helping take care of the three newest members of the Open Arms village. Today we had a site meeting with the foremen on the construction of the OAI village (they have been making quite a bit of progress on the orphanage homes - it looks like the first one will be completed within the next week or two, and two other homes will be completed within the next month). We also met with the District Commissioner of Eldoret about the possibility of starting a school at the village and he gave us some helpful advice along with assuring us that we would be able to start the school in January (the earliest we had hoped to start the school). On the way out to the site, we had a hilarious conversation with the project manager, Andrew Kiptoo, about the custom of polygamy in Kenya. He asked what Matt thought about gaining a second wife while he was here in Kenya and then he proceeded to tell Cheryl that according to Kenyan custom, she could choose who Matt's second wife would be. Matt then proceeded to ask Cheryl who she would choose, and she informed Matt that she would choose someone who would make his life miserable. At that point, the conversation changed to Kenyan politics. We are out of time for today, but we are looking forward to sending more photos and stories about our experiences here. Have a wonderful day.

Matt and Cheryl